Tag Archives: doris

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Happy birthday apron – McCalls M5825

 

A long, long time ago, I bought an apron pattern because I figured it would be a good intro to sewing with patterns for a beginner like me, without having to worry about fit. But then, I never actually sewed it – I got on with quilt making and eventually made a few tops and dresses from patterns and discovered it wasn’t all that bad!

So the pattern sat there unused until Karen started her apronalong, which gave me just the kick I needed to dig out this pattern in order to make a present for my friend’s birthday. I’m so happy with the end result that I have to admit it will be a pang to give it away…

I used an Ikea checked fabric as my main fabric. It’s nice and tough for proper cooking, which my friend who will get this apron does a lot. I took the fabric shopping with me so I could hold it up against other fabrics to use with it, and eventually settled on one fat quarter of this lovely Kokka Wooded Forest fabric, which was pricey for a fat quarter at £4.50 but I think it really made this apron feel really special!

The pattern itself didn’t have a waistband, but I felt the two fabrics really benefited from a hit of red in the middle so I added one. This added quite a few headaches as to how to construct the whole thing, but I got there in the end! I think the instructions and construction of this dress would be nice and simple if I’d stuck to the waistband-less version.

The pockets and the bodice are both backed with denim (still left over from this skirt and this dress!), which I didn’t really take a picture of but you can see it peeking out here:

(Isn’t it weird how taking pictures on your dress form from certain angles can seem a little pervy?? – This one definitely did)

Best picture ever, though, right?

For the waist ties, the pattern calls for the normal “sew a tube, turn it inside out style”, but I totally messed mine up (cheap polyester plus badly applied interfacing plus hurried trying to turn it inside out). I was fed up of trying to turn stupid tubes inside out and I wanted to finish it up without going out for nice ribbon (plus the shops were shut), so I made my own ribbon out of some polka dot bias tape and the feather stitch on my machine. I love how this turned out! Talk about a happy accident.

I used the same feather stitch to finish my hem, which came out really bulky because of this fabric being decor weight. I also messed up and put the skirt on the apron wrong side out (so the less attractive side of the hem is on the outside). Oh well!

Thanks Karen for the kick I needed to finally make an apron!

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Sorbetto Sundae – simple summer dress

A few weeks ago, after months of rain, it suddenly got HOT. And I realised I barely had any clothes suitable for HOT weather, let alone driving around France in hot weather (I know from experience how hot that can be). I wanted something super simple and super lightweight, but I also wanted to make it myself and I had about two lunch breaks and half an evening to do it.

And so? The Sorbetto Sundae dress was born!

Bad picture! I was in a hurry! I’ll try and get some pics of me in it on holiday!

The fabric is a French (according to the man in the shop) cotton voile and it’s super lightweight. I bought just a metre of it and practically ever inch is used in this dress.

How did I squeeze a dress out of a yard of fabric? Well. I used the Colette Sorbetto pattern (I think you’ll get bored of hearing that phrase over the next few months), which is free to download from here. I omitted the pleat because I didn’t have enough fabric (this is simple to do, but here’s a tutorial if you’re stuck).

As both front and back need to be cut on the fold, I ironed my fabric to have two folds and then lay the pieces like this:

;

And then…(this is the bit where I should have taken a picture), I made sure the bottoms of my two pieces were level with each other, and then just continued the line down and out as far as it would go (basically making a very long top). It ended up being not that much wider at the hem than it was at the hem of the top, but that was fine.

20120803-170250.jpg

Ok, so I can’t do anything about the fact I didn’t take pictures, but here’s a reconstruction using a post-it note! so the black is the original bodice/top pattern and the pencil line is how I extended it. Except… to make it even more complicated, I folded everything in half after cutting out the bodice/top bits (still lining up the bottom of the front and back) so that my skirt pieces would be mirror images of each other.

Still following? Phew!

This then came together really easily. I french seamed all the seams (like this! so fancy!), except after sewing the shoulder seams wrong three times I gave up and did normal seams, which I then bound with some very thin, light bias tape I found in my great aunt’s stash. It’s the short brownish line in this inside-out picture of the shoulder.

Check out my wonky stitching! This is why I always say if I can do this you can do this! (about sewing)

I did a bias facing… When I made my last sorbetto I thought I was just binding the edges with bias binding – I didn’t know that a bias facing (exposed or hidden) is a different thing! These were the two blog posts that helped me out: one and two. (I mainly followed the second but ran out of patience when it came to understitching).

Another inside out picture. See how the bias tape wasn’t at all visible on the outside? That’s the difference between bias binding as binding and bias tape as facing. On an exposed bias facing it would look like this, but when it was the right way out.

I sewed the hem with a baby hem/rolled hem done this way, but also a little bit bodged so the end result was smaller but nowhere near as neat:

Note, this is not what a rolled hem should look like! Done is better than perfect, right?

And finally, after all that boring detail, here’s two nice close ups of this delectable fabric. I love it! It’s just so summery, like an ice cream sundae in all my favourite colours (hence the ‘name’ of this dress).

This fabric is so lightweight that it’s practically see-through in the wrong light. For a day at the beach or in the car I’m fine with it being a tiny bit sheer, but I wore it to work with a cotton slip and it was totally professional. I could have lined it, but I like the flexibility of having a summery sheer dress for the beach but with the option of adding a sip to make it more formal.

It looks nicer with a belt but on really hot days when I stop caring about looking nice, I’ll wear it without.

So, my verdict on the sorbetto pattern? Dreamy. Seriously. The first time I saw the pattern I was like “eh”. But then, as it was free and I had that cheap fabric, I made one. And what do you know? Even though that thing is fugly and riddled with weird bits and the fabric is nasty to wear, I find myself putting it on all the time. And I can tell this dress is going to be the same! So, if you’re on the fence about the sorbetto, give it a go. It doesn’t take much money, time, or fabric and it’s a bit of a winner. Huzzah!

Edited to add – PSST – you can see a picture of me wearing this dress here.

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Amazing Fit – Simplicity 1800 dress

So, all of y’all know I’ve been obsessed with sewing lately? Finally this has (nearly) come to fruition! Thanks to a rainy weekend and some pinning help (the real stuff, not the pinterest kind) from my mum, I have a made this:

Hip hip hooray! Yes, it still needs to be hemmed but I’m pretending that I’m letting the skirt hang for a few days to get the bottom level (even though it’s not really necessary for this dress, but shh) before doing this.

BUT, I have a new way to stop unfinished dresses from never being finished. I’m not allowed to put them away. They have to stay on Doris (who, remember, normally lives right in line of sight from the sofa) so that I have to stare at it every day until I give in and finish it. The Cambie dress is going straight on Doris once I’ve hemmed this dress.

Anyway. I decided I wanted to make this pattern after the deflating first time I tried on the Cambie dress. My measurements are a bit weird and I didn’t feel ready alter a pattern to fit my bust. I wanted to tackle sewing up a dress before tinkering with fit. So I did some googling and found the Simplicity Amazing Fit line. These come with different bodice pieces depending on your cup size. Genius, non?

I really liked the look of the 1800 -

Source: simplicity.com via Annabel on Pinterest

So I did a whole load of googling and couldn’t find that many completed versions, until I stumbled on this beautiful chambray version from Nikki at Fancy That.

I went to my local fabric shop and found as near a match for the fabric as I could. (I love this fabric shop, they always ask if I’m a student and knock about 15 per cent off even though I say I’m not! Plus they’re friendly and helpful and it’s not at all twee in the slightest, just a real local sewing shop that’s been there forever)  I cut out my fabric Saturday morning, and pretty much finished except for hemming on Sunday, with lots of not-sewing time mixed in with the sewing.

I love it. The pockets are right where your hands reach for pockets. The bodice fits better than any dress I’ve bought in a shop in years. It’s nicely fitted around the bust and waist – I normally have to pick one or the other! It has some bits that didn’t quite go right (note to self: use this tutorial next time you put a zip in, not a pin and prayer) but I’m not going to point them all out like I normally do, because, you guys, I did it. I finished a dress! My next dress will be better, and the one after that even better. Huzzah!

PS. I’m purposefully not including a ton of photos and details, because when the dress is done-done and I’ve worn it a few times I’m going to write a proper review – like I said, they were really hard to find online and most of the ones I did find (pretty much just these four) didn’t really cover whether the “amazing fit” bit of the pattern helped with a big bust). So I’m keeping this post slim on details and photos so I don’t bore you all when I come back with that post!

PPS. I had a really pin-productive weekend! I also made macaroni and cheese from scratch using this method, pizza like this (a bit of cheat as that’s a pin from my own site!), baked this cake and decorated the top using this pin (but with a doily for a stencil) – I also went for a run. It’s still enough of a novelty that I like to talk about it a lot! (To be fair, it was my first ever run in the rain, and that’s an achievement, right?)

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My new friend: vintage chil-daw tailor’s dummy

There’s a new resident in the Vita household:

Chil-daw tailors mannequin and secretary cabinet desk

Her name is Doris and she’ll be helping me out with my sewing, and perhaps blogging too.

She’s a tough old bird, from the 50s or 60s. I found her through preloved.co.uk – which is a more civilised version of ebay, gumtree or craigslist, just for second-hand furniture. I’ve been a long-term lurker there but never actually pulled the trigger.

Here’s the advert:

Vintage chil-daw pioneer tailors dummy

(Doris would like to apologise for the nude shots, ha)

And here are her close ups (taken from the ad):

Vintage chil-daw pioneer tailors dummyVintage chil-daw pioneer tailors dummy

Isn’t she lovely? Before we went to pick her up, I offered the seller £50, and she countered with £55. I was happy with this as I’ve seen this exact model go for over a hundred on ebay etc (this one was £220). Plus, these totally unadjustable polystyrene shop dummies are £40 (before postage). So I was happy with the cost and happy that, because she’s vintage, she looks good just hanging out in our living room when she’s not in use. I was going to make a cheapie gum tape dress form, but we don’t really have anywhere to store something like that.

The lady we picked her up from was lovely. She’s belonged to her mother-in-law, but she didn’t think it had been used in at least thirty years. It was the lady that called her Doris, but I like it enough to keep it. I like my things to come with a bit of history.

Chil-daw tailors mannequin and secretary cabinet desk

Her bust is a little smaller than mine, but my bust is big for my frame, so I think we’re going to get along just fine. I’ve read a few tutorials (one, two, three) for how to pad a dress form and will post my own thoughts once I’ve done it. Ideally I want to make a padded cover that zips on and off so that my mum and Mr V’s mum can use it too.

And, because I couldn’t find this information anywhere by googling, in case you’ve come here looking for how to adjust a chil-daw pioneer mannequin (I’ll try to get around to doing a whole post with pictures one day, for those three people in the world who might want it).

1) Reach inside and loosen all the wingnuts (they look like this) that are holding the horizontal plates together (there are four that help attach the form to the pole, ignore those!). Some WD-40 might help if they’re stiff.

2) Turn the dials where you want to adjust. Down makes it bigger. Ditto on the WD-40

3) Once you’ve got the size you’re after, re-tighten the wingnuts for stability.

4) Compare measurements and turn to the tutorials I linked to above to pad the rest.

So that’s my new dress form! (and my lovely vintage plaid dress from Vintage-on-Sea, Whitstable. When she’s not helping me sew, I thought Doris could help me out with some outfit posts from time to time, since I love all my clothes but have no interest in being a fashion blogger!

Chil-daw tailors mannequin and secretary cabinet desk

On the subject of sewing, I thought I’d update you on the progress with my Cambie dress. I spent a weekend fiendishly sewing and got the outer dress all finished (zipper and everything!) (sleeves don’t get finished yet so ignore those), but when I tried it on it looked awful.

See? (It looked way worse in real life – I think this picture might be after mum and I pinned out some excess). It’s all my fault – I sewed the size that would fit my bust, but I should have fit it everywhere else and then adjusted for my bust.  I felt so deflated that I needed a bit of a break before tackling how to make it fit properly, and then life got a bit crazy (Mr V and I can’t remember the last weekend we spent at home – it was sometime in May I think) so progress has stalled. It’s a lovely pattern and the instructions are great. Once life calms down, and with a bit of help from Doris, I should have it finished soon.